Pingyao: The Best-Preserved Ancient County City in China

Pingyao, in central Shanxi Province, is China's best-preserved ancient walled city. Founded in the Western Zhou Dynasty (9th–8th century BCE) and largely rebuilt during the Ming Dynasty, its 6 kilometers of walls, 4,000 traditional courtyard houses, and historic streets survive intact. In 1997, it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

City Walls

Pingyao's walls are among the most complete in China. Built in 1370, they form a square 2.25 kilometers on each side, with 72 watchtowers and 3,000 battlements. You can walk the entire perimeter in about 2 hours. The walls are 12 meters high and 3–6 meters thick, built of rammed earth faced with brick.

Banking Capital

During the Qing Dynasty, Pingyao was China's financial center. The Rishengchang Exchange Shop, founded here in 1823, pioneered modern banking in China. At its peak, Pingyao's banks had branches across the country and as far as Japan and Russia. The Rishengchang building is now a museum, with exhibits on banking history.

Ming-Qing Streets

The streets inside the walls retain their Ming and Qing layout. The South Street is the main commercial axis, lined with shops, restaurants, and courtyard houses. Traditional crafts are practiced and sold: lacquerware, paper-cuts, and shoes. The city's 4,000 traditional houses are still inhabited; many are being converted to guesthouses.

City God Temple

The Chenghuang Temple, dedicated to the city god, is one of China's best-preserved temple complexes. Its elaborate woodcarvings, frescoes, and tiled roofs represent Ming and Qing religious architecture. The nearby Confucius Temple and Qingxu Guan (Taoist temple) add to the spiritual landscape.

Shuanglin Temple

About 6 kilometers outside the city, Shuanglin Temple contains over 2,000 painted clay sculptures from the Song through Qing dynasties. The figures — Buddhas, bodhisattvas, warriors, and donors — are extraordinarily expressive, among the finest Buddhist sculptures in China. The temple receives far fewer visitors than the city.

Shanxi Cuisine

Pingyao's specialties include Pingyao beef, salt-cured and sliced thin; "wan tuo," a buckwheat jelly; and various noodle dishes. The city's restaurants serve traditional Shanxi food in courtyard settings.

Practical Information

Pingyao is about 1.5 hours by high-speed train from Taiyuan, or 4 hours from Beijing. A through-ticket covers the walls, temples, and museums. Allow at least one full day; two days allows for Shuanglin Temple. Spring and autumn are the best times; summer is hot, winter can be cold but atmospheric.