Gannan: The Tibetan Grasslands of Southern Gansu

Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, in southern Gansu Province, is one of China's most evocative Tibetan regions outside the Tibet Autonomous Region. Known as Amdo in Tibetan, its rolling grasslands, monasteries, and nomadic culture offer a less-traveled alternative to Qinghai and Sichuan's Tibetan areas. The capital, Xiahe, is home to one of the most important monasteries outside Lhasa.

Labrang Monastery

Labrang Monastery, in Xiahe, is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) school of Tibetan Buddhism. Founded in 1709, it once housed over 4,000 monks; today, about 1,000 remain. The monastery complex includes six colleges, dozens of temples, and the longest corridor of prayer wheels in the world — over 1,400 wheels extending 3 kilometers. Pilgrims circumambulate the kora path from dawn to dusk.

Sangke Grassland

Outside Xiahe, the Sangke Grassland stretches to the horizon. Nomadic Tibetan herders graze yaks and sheep on the rolling hills; their black yak-hair tents dot the landscape. Visitors can arrange homestays in nomad tents, riding horses across the steppe, and attending summer festivals. The contrast between the green grass, blue sky, and distant snow peaks is sublime.

Langmusi Connection

About 4 hours from Xiahe, Langmusi (covered separately) offers another perspective on Tibetan culture, with its dramatic cliff-side monasteries and sky burial site. The journey between Xiahe and Langmusi passes through some of the most beautiful grasslands in Gannan.

Ganjia Secret Land

The Ganjia Valley, about 30 kilometers from Xiahe, is a hidden gem. Its white limestone cliffs, ancient fortress ruins, and traditional villages feel removed from time. The Bajiao City, a ruined citadel, dates to the Western Xia period (11th century). The valley remains largely unexplored by foreign tourists.

Tibetan Cuisine

Gannan offers authentic Tibetan food: tsampa (roasted barley flour), yak butter tea, momos (dumplings), and yak meat stew. The town of Xiahe has restaurants serving both Tibetan and Chinese food. For the adventurous, yak yogurt and dried yak cheese provide an acquired taste.

Buddhist Festivals

The Monlam (Great Prayer Festival) in winter draws thousands of pilgrims to Labrang for ceremonies, debates, and butter sculpture displays. The summer horse racing festivals in July and August bring nomad families together for competitions, picnics, and courtship. Visiting during a festival offers the deepest cultural immersion.

Getting There

Xiahe is accessible by bus from Lanzhou (about 4 hours). The road crosses high passes; altitude sickness is possible. Summer is the best time to visit, when the grasslands are green and festivals are held. Winter is cold but offers clear views and fewer tourists. Accommodation ranges from basic guesthouses to mid-range hotels.