Weishan: The Ancient Town of Nanzhao Kingdom in Yunnan

Weishan, in western Yunnan's Dali Prefecture, was the cradle of the Nanzhao Kingdom — a powerful state that dominated Southeast Asia from the 8th to 10th centuries. Today, this small county town retains a remarkably preserved Old Town, Yi ethnic culture, and a pace of life that feels centuries removed from modern China.

Nanzhao Heritage

The Nanzhao Kingdom (738–902 CE) emerged from Weishan, then called Mengshe, to unite six chieftaincies into a regional power. At its height, Nanzhao controlled territory from Burma to Sichuan, challenging Tang Dynasty China. The Weishan Museum, housed in the former Confucius Temple, displays Nanzhao artifacts and tells the story of this lost kingdom. The nearby Weibaoshan Mountain holds Taoist temples and ancient steles.

The Old Town

Weishan's Old Town is one of the best-preserved in Yunnan. Its grid of streets, lined with Ming and Qing dynasty buildings, remains largely unchanged. The North Gate Tower, built in 1390, is one of Yunnan's tallest ancient structures. The Drum Tower and Confucius Temple anchor the town center. Unlike Dali or Lijiang, Weishan sees few tourists, and its streets are filled with locals going about daily life.

Yi People

The Yi, one of China's largest ethnic minorities, dominate Weishan. Yi women wear distinctive black clothing with embroidered trim, silver ornaments, and elaborate headdresses. The Torch Festival, held in the 6th lunar month, involves bonfires, dancing, and rituals to drive away pests and evil spirits. Yi villages in the surrounding mountains welcome visitors.

Weibaoshan Mountain

Weibaoshan, about 10 kilometers from town, is one of Yunnan's most sacred Taoist mountains. A path winds through pine forests past a dozen temples, some dating to the Nanzhao period. The mountain is associated with the Taoist deity Wenchang, patron of literature, and attracts pilgrims during festivals. The views from the summit stretch across the Honghe Valley.

Local Food

Weishan is famous for its "one-pot dish" (yiguo), a stew of meat, vegetables, and rice noodles served in a clay pot. Yi-style grilled meat, pickled vegetables, and sticky rice cakes are other specialties. The morning market, held daily in the Old Town, offers fresh produce, herbs, and prepared foods.

Handmade Incense

Weishan has a centuries-old tradition of handmade incense, used in Buddhist and Taoist ceremonies. Local workshops produce joss sticks from sandalwood, agarwood, and other aromatic woods. The craft is being revived after near-disappearance during the Cultural Revolution.

Getting There

Weishan is about 1 hour by bus from Dali. The town is small enough to explore on foot in a day, but an overnight stay allows for visits to Weibaoshan and surrounding villages. Spring and autumn are the best times; summer brings rain, winter is cool but clear.