Tongli: The Venice of the East in Jiangsu
Tongli, in Jiangsu Province about 80 kilometers west of Shanghai, is one of China's best-preserved water towns. Founded over 1,000 years ago, it is built on seven islands connected by 49 stone bridges. Its network of canals, Ming and Qing dynasty houses, and tranquil gardens make it a UNESCO World Heritage candidate and one of the most atmospheric destinations in the Yangtze Delta.
The Water Town Layout
Tongli's layout is defined by water. Five lakes surround the town, and 15 canals run through it, dividing it into seven islands. The islands are connected by bridges — each with its own character. The Three Bridges (Taiping, Jili, and Changqing) form a triangle that locals traditionally cross at weddings for good luck. Boat rides through the canals pass under centuries-old stone arches and past waterside homes.
Tuisi Garden
The Tuisi Garden, built in 1885 by a retired official, is Tongli's crown jewel. Its name means "retreat for reflection," and the design embodies that spirit: pavilions, corridors, and rockeries arranged around a central pond. The garden is unique for its use of water as the primary element — many structures seem to float. UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site in 2000 as part of the "Classical Gardens of Suzhou" extension.
Gengle Hall
Gengle Hall, built in the Ming Dynasty, is one of the town's grandest residences. Its 52 rooms, multiple courtyards, and elaborate woodcarvings demonstrate the wealth of Tongli's merchant class. The hall is now a museum, furnished with period antiques.
The Ancient Sex Culture Museum
Unusually for a conservative Chinese town, Tongli hosts the China Ancient Sex Culture Museum. Founded by Professor Liu Dalin, it contains thousands of artifacts related to Chinese sexuality — from ancient fertility symbols to erotic art. The museum is tastefully presented and offers a window into an aspect of Chinese culture rarely discussed.
Nanbin Street
Nanbin Street, the old commercial district, runs along the main canal. Two-story wooden buildings house shops, teahouses, and restaurants. In the evening, lanterns illuminate the street, and boats glide past. The atmosphere is less commercialized than Zhouzhuang, making it ideal for leisurely strolling.
Local Specialties
Tongli is known for its pork trotter (tizhu), braised in soy sauce until meltingly tender. The town's restaurants serve it as a specialty. Other local dishes include lake shrimp, water shield soup, and glutinous rice cakes. Teahouses along the canal offer traditional snacks and views.
Practical Tips
Tongli is about 1.5 hours by bus from Shanghai. An entrance ticket is required for the Old Town and covers major attractions. The town is small enough to explore entirely on foot. Early morning and evening are the most atmospheric times; midday brings tour groups. Many visitors combine Tongli with nearby Suzhou.
