Linxia: The Little Mecca of Northwest China

Linxia, in south-central Gansu Province, is one of the most distinctive cities in China. Known historically as Hezhou, it has been a center of Islamic learning and culture for over a thousand years. Today, its population is predominantly Hui Muslim and Dongxiang, with a landscape of mosques, madrassas, and Sufi shrines unmatched elsewhere in China. It is often called "Little Mecca" or "China's Jerusalem."

Islamic Heritage

Islam arrived in Linxia via the Silk Road over 1,300 years ago. The city became a center for Sufi orders, particularly the Naqshbandi and Qadiriyya, which established shrines (gongbei) around the tombs of holy men. These shrines, with their distinctive domed architecture, are still active pilgrimage sites. The city has dozens of mosques in various architectural styles — Chinese, Central Asian, and Arab.

Brick Carving

Linxia is famous for its brick carving (zhuan diao), a traditional art form seen on mosques, houses, and public buildings. Intricate geometric patterns, calligraphy, and floral motifs are carved into grey brick with extraordinary precision. The craft has been passed down through generations of Muslim artisans. The Hongyuan Grand Mosque features particularly fine examples.

Bafang Mosque and Food

The area around Bafang Mosque is the city's cultural heart. Narrow lanes lead to hidden courtyards, Quranic schools, and family-run restaurants. The food here is distinct from the pork-heavy cuisine of Han China: hand-pulled noodles with lamb, baked flatbread (nang), steamed dumplings, and sour soup. The morning market offers fresh yogurt, walnut cakes, and spices from across the Muslim world.

Dongxiang People

The Dongxiang, a Mongol-derived ethnic group who speak a Mongolic language but practice Islam, are concentrated in the hills around Linxia. They are among the poorest and most isolated minorities in China, with limited access to education and services. Dongxiang women traditionally wear black robes and white scarves; men wear white caps. Visiting Dongxiang villages offers a glimpse into a way of life little changed in centuries.

Bingling Temple

About 50 kilometers from Linxia, the Bingling Temple caves contain Buddhist sculptures and murals dating from the 5th to 18th centuries. Carved into a cliff above the Yellow River, the site reflects the region's religious diversity — Buddhist caves in a predominantly Muslim area. A boat trip across the Liujiaxia Reservoir is required to reach the caves.

Horse Culture

Linxia has a long tradition of horse trading. The Hezhou horse, a sturdy breed suited to mountain terrain, was prized by the military. The city's horse market, held on specific days, remains active. Horse racing events draw crowds from across the region.

Getting There

Linxia is about 2 hours by bus from Lanzhou. The city has basic hotels and guesthouses. Visitors should be respectful of Islamic customs: dress modestly, avoid alcohol in public, and ask permission before entering mosques. The best time to visit is summer, when the high-altitude climate is pleasant.