Pingshan: The Forgotten Hakka Stronghold of Sichuan

Pingshan County, in southern Sichuan near the Yunnan border, is one of the province's least-explored regions. Its remote valleys hide remarkable Hakka communities who migrated here centuries ago and built fortified settlements that remain largely unknown to tourists. The landscape of limestone peaks, bamboo forests, and clear rivers adds to the sense of discovery.

Hakka Migration

The Hakka ("guest people") of Pingshan arrived from Guangdong and Fujian during the Qing Dynasty, part of a government-sponsored migration to populate the frontier. They brought their distinctive architecture, language, and customs, which have survived in isolation. Unlike the famous Fujian tulou, Pingshan's Hakka fortresses are less monumental but equally authentic.

Longhua Ancient Town

Longhua, in Pingshan County, is a remarkably preserved Ming-Qing town that sees almost no foreign tourists. Its main street is lined with wooden shopfronts, ancestral halls, and a grand temple complex. The Eight Immortals Temple, built in the 17th century, features elaborate woodcarvings and a cliffside location. The town's markets sell local specialties: bamboo shoots, wild mushrooms, and honey.

Laojun Mountain

Rising behind Longhua is Laojun Mountain, a sacred peak associated with Laozi, the founder of Taoism. A stone path winds past waterfalls, temples, and ancient inscriptions to a summit shrine. The mountain is a pilgrimage site during the Laozi Festival (15th day of the 2nd lunar month). The forests shelter macaques, pangolins, and numerous bird species.

Xiangjiaba Dam

The Xiangjiaba Dam, on the Jinsha River (upper Yangtze), is one of China's largest hydroelectric projects. The dam's reservoir has created a vast lake, transforming the local landscape. While controversial for its environmental impact, the dam has brought roads and infrastructure to this previously isolated region.

Hakka Cuisine

Pingshan's Hakka maintain their culinary traditions: stuffed tofu, salt-baked chicken, and braised pork belly. The local variant incorporates Sichuan influences, adding more chili and numbing pepper. Hakka rice wine, fermented in clay jars, is served at festivals. The county's rivers provide fish and freshwater shrimp.

Getting There

Pingshan is about 4 hours by road from Chengdu, via Yibin. The journey passes through increasingly dramatic scenery as the road climbs into the mountains. Local buses connect Yibin to Pingshan and Longhua. Accommodation is basic but adequate. The best time to visit is spring or autumn; summer is hot and humid.

Why Go?

Pingshan offers a rare chance to see Hakka culture in an unexpected setting, far from the tourist crowds of Fujian and Guangdong. The combination of ethnic heritage, natural beauty, and genuine isolation makes it a destination for adventurous travelers.