Xitang: Where Canals Meet Covered Corridors

Xitang, in northern Zhejiang Province, is one of the most atmospheric of China's water towns. Unlike Zhouzhuang, which draws hordes of day-trippers from Shanghai, Xitang remains relatively peaceful — especially in the early morning and evening. Its distinctive feature is the covered corridors along the canals, protecting pedestrians from sun and rain, and giving the town a uniquely intimate character.

Covered Corridors (Yanlang)

Xitang's covered corridors stretch for over 1,000 meters along the riverside, making it unique among Chinese water towns. Built during the Ming and Qing dynasties, they serve both practical and aesthetic purposes: shopkeepers display goods under the eaves, elders sit on benches watching the river, and couples stroll sheltered from the weather. At night, lanterns hang from the rafters, casting a warm glow on the water below.

Bridges and Canals

Xitang has 104 bridges spanning nine rivers. Each bridge has a different shape and history. The Wolong Bridge, built in 1714, resembles a dragon lying across the water. The Wufu Bridge, the highest in town, offers views over the rooftops. Small boats — once cargo vessels, now carrying tourists — glide under the bridges, their wakes gently lapping against stone embankments.

Old Residences

The town contains several well-preserved courtyard homes, now open to visitors. The Zui Garden, built during the Ming Dynasty, features a classic scholar's garden with rockeries, carp ponds, and zigzag bridges. The West Garden (Xiyuan) was once a scholar's retreat. The Root Carving Museum displays extraordinary wooden sculptures by local artist Zhang Zheng, who transforms tree roots into intricate figures.

Niuteng and Button Museums

Xitang was historically a center for button manufacturing — at one point, over 90% of buttons in China were made here. The Button Museum tells this quirky story. The Niuteng Museum displays traditional ox-attribute canes, a local craft unique to Xitang.

Literary Connection

Xitang served as a filming location for the movie Mission: Impossible III (2006), in a chase scene along the covered corridors. More significantly, it has inspired countless Chinese poets and painters. The painter Xu Jiang, a native of nearby Hangzhou, has captured Xitang's misty, meditative atmosphere in oil.

Local Food

Xitang's specialties reflect its Jiangnan (lower Yangtze) location. Steamed pork with rice flour, drunken crab, and river fish are staples. Osmanthus cakes, sticky rice dumplings, and fermented bean curd make popular snacks. Tea houses overlooking the canals serve Longjing tea from nearby Hangzhou.

Best Time to Visit

Xitang is best experienced in the early morning, when mist rises from the canals and old residents practice tai chi in the squares, or in the evening, when tour buses have left and the lanterns are lit. An overnight stay allows you to see both. Avoid weekends if possible, when Shanghai day-trippers arrive.

Getting There

Xitang is about 90 minutes by bus from Shanghai or Hangzhou. Direct buses run from Shanghai South Bus Station. The town is small enough to explore entirely on foot.