Dali: Bai Culture and the Shores of Erhai Lake

Dali, in western Yunnan Province, has long been a haven for those escaping the mainstream. Set between the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake, it was the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom (8th–10th centuries) and later the Dali Kingdom, both independent states that thrived on trade between China, Southeast Asia, and Tibet. Today, it's a place of extraordinary cultural depth and natural beauty.

The Bai People

The Bai, the dominant ethnic group here, are known for their white clothing (bai means "white" in Chinese) and their deep traditions of agriculture, architecture, and art. Bai architecture is among the most refined in China — look for the "flying eaves" of temple roofs, the intricate woodcarvings on doors and windows, and the colorful painted lintels that depict local legends. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, dating to the Nanzhao era, are the iconic symbol of Dali.

Erhai Lake

Erhai Lake, shaped like an ear (hence the name, "Ear Sea"), is the heart of Dali's geography. At 40 kilometers long, it can be circled by bike or e-bike in a day — a ride that takes you through fishing villages, terraced rice paddies, and quiet temples. The lake is a sanctuary for migratory birds, including black-headed gulls that winter here from Siberia. Xiaguan, the modern city, sits at the lake's southern tip, while the Old Town anchors its northwestern shore.

The Old Town

Dali Old Town is smaller and more manageable than Lijiang's. Its layout follows the traditional Chinese grid, but the pace is anything but rigid. Foreigners' Street (Renmin Road) has long been a gathering place for backpackers and expats; many settled here in the 1990s and opened cafes and guesthouses. Yet beyond the tourist core, you'll find genuine Bai life — morning markets selling fresh cheese (rubing), sour fish, and wild vegetables.

Traditional Crafts

Dali is a center for tie-dyeing (zharan), a Bai tradition that produces intricate indigo patterns on cloth. Workshops in Zhoucheng, a village just north of Dali, welcome visitors to try their hand at the craft. Woodcarving and silverwork are also practiced here — many of the ornate doors and furniture seen in temples and homes were made by Bai artisans.

Local Food

Bai cuisine reflects the region's agriculture and lakes. Sour and spicy flavors dominate. Try grilled Erhai fish, rubbed with herbs and spices; sticky rice cakes; and the famous Xizhou baba — a sweet or savory flatbread baked over charcoal. The Three-Course Tea ceremony, once served to honored guests, includes bitter, sweet, and aftertaste teas symbolizing life's stages.

Cangshan Mountains

Rising sharply behind the Old Town, the Cangshan range offers hiking trails, waterfalls, and cable car access to Cloud Traveller's Path (Yunyou Road), a paved trail at 2,500 meters with panoramic views. The mountain's 19 peaks and 18 streams inspired poets and painters for centuries.